Roof Replacement Preparation Checklist — Get Your Home Ready

Get a specific date and expected timeline in writing. Most residential roofs take 1–3 days depending on size, complexity, and weather. Know when the crew arrives (typically 7–8 AM) and when the dumpster will be delivered (often the day before). Ask about the rain contingency plan — will they tarp an open roof overnight, or do they only start when the full-day forecast is clear?

Roof replacement generates sustained noise from 7 AM until evening. Nail guns, debris drops, and compressors are loud enough to affect neighbors' work-from-home situations and sleeping schedules. A courteous heads-up prevents complaints and preserves neighborly relations. Mention the expected duration and that debris may drift into their yard — your contractor should clean it, but awareness helps.

Most jurisdictions require a permit for full roof replacement. The contractor should handle this, but verify it's been pulled before work begins. An unpermitted roof replacement can cause problems when selling your home, void manufacturer warranties, and result in fines. Ask for the permit number and confirm with your local building department if you want certainty.

The noise and vibration are intense enough to distress pets — dogs may bark continuously, and cats may hide for days. Small children may be frightened by the banging. If anyone in your household is noise-sensitive, has anxiety, or works from home on calls, plan for them to be elsewhere during work hours. Boarding pets for 1–3 days costs $25–$75/day but eliminates stress for everyone.

Confirm your contractor carries general liability insurance (minimum $1 million) and workers' compensation coverage. Ask for a certificate of insurance naming you as an additional insured. If a worker is injured on your property without workers' comp, you could be liable. Also notify your own insurer about the replacement — your premium may decrease with a new roof, and they need to know about the upgrade.

Roofing nails, shingle debris, and tools fall off roofs. A single dropped hammer or chunk of flashing can dent a hood or crack a windshield. Move all vehicles at least 30 feet from the house and out of the driveway — the crew needs driveway space for the dumpster and material staging. If you have a garage, park inside if possible, but be aware that vibration may knock items off garage shelves.

Anything within 15 feet of the house is in the debris zone. Move patio furniture, potted plants, bird feeders, hanging decorations, and outdoor electronics to a covered area or far side of the yard. Items that can't be moved (built-in planters, permanent fixtures) should be covered with plywood and tarps — not just tarps, as falling debris can pierce fabric.

Shrubs, flower beds, and gardens adjacent to the house will be impacted by falling debris, ladder placement, and foot traffic. Lay plywood over garden beds directly against the house to protect plants from debris and compression. Flag sprinkler heads and landscape lighting with marking flags so the crew avoids them when positioning ladders and staging materials.

The dumpster truck needs a clear, firm-surface path. The dumpster itself is typically 10–12 feet long and weighs several thousand pounds loaded — it will damage soft lawns. If the dumpster must sit on your driveway, place plywood underneath to prevent cracking. Material pallets (shingles weigh 60–80 pounds per bundle, and a typical house needs 60–80 bundles) need staging space near the house.

The hammering and shingle stripping vibrate your entire structure. Pictures fall off nails, mirrors shake loose, and decorative items on shelves walk to the edge and crash. Remove everything from walls and high shelves on the top floor at minimum. For lower floors, secure or remove anything fragile. This is especially important for the rooms directly below the roof — the vibration is strongest there.

When the old roof is stripped, dust, granules, and small debris sift through the sheathing gaps into the attic. If you store items in your attic, cover them with plastic sheeting or old bed sheets. If your attic has exposed insulation, be aware that debris will settle into it — this is normal and doesn't require remediation unless the quantity is extreme.

Crew members may need to access your electrical panel if they're installing powered attic ventilation, or water shutoff if a plumbing vent boot is being relocated. Ensure these are accessible and not blocked by furniture or storage. Point out their locations to the crew foreman on day one.

Many roofing crews request restroom access. Designate one bathroom near an exterior door and stock it with supplies. If you're not comfortable with crew access to your home, discuss portable toilet arrangements with your contractor before the project — some companies provide them, others expect homeowner accommodation.

Roofing nails end up everywhere — in the lawn, garden beds, driveway, and sidewalk. They puncture tires and injure bare feet. Professional crews use magnetic nail sweepers, but they don't catch everything. Walk your yard each evening and especially the driveway. Continue checking for nails for 2–3 weeks after the project — rain and mowing bring buried nails to the surface.

Your contract should specify cleanup responsibilities. Before final payment, verify: all debris is removed from the yard and landscaping, gutters have been cleaned of shingle granules and debris, the dumpster has been picked up or is scheduled for removal, and any landscape damage has been addressed. Take photos of the completed cleanup for your records.

Walk the roof perimeter from the ground with binoculars and inspect: straight shingle lines, proper flashing at all penetrations, clean ridge cap installation, and drip edge alignment. Ask about the ventilation system installed. Request the manufacturer warranty registration information — most shingle warranties require registration within 30–60 days. Compare the completed work to your contract specifications.

You should receive two warranties: the shingle manufacturer's material warranty (typically 25–50 years, but often prorated after the first 10) and the contractor's workmanship warranty (typically 5–15 years). Get both in writing with start dates, coverage terms, and claim procedures. File these with your home records — you'll need them for any future claims and when selling your home.