Licensing and Insurance Verification
This is the non-negotiable foundation. A roofer without proper licensing and insurance exposes you to liability for worker injuries and leaves you with no recourse for defective work.
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Verify the contractor holds a valid state or local roofing license
Look up the license number on your state's contractor licensing board website — don't just accept a photocopy. License requirements vary by state, but most require passing exams, proving experience, and posting a bond. An unlicensed roofer means no regulatory oversight and no bond to file a claim against if things go wrong.
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Confirm active general liability insurance — minimum $1 million coverage
Ask for a Certificate of Insurance (COI) and call the insurance company directly to verify it's active. General liability covers damage to your property during the job. If an uninsured roofer drops a bundle of shingles through your skylight, you're paying for the repair out of pocket.
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Confirm workers' compensation insurance for all employees
If a worker is injured on your property and the contractor doesn't carry workers' comp, you can be held liable for medical bills and lost wages. This happens more often than homeowners realize. Verify the policy is active with the insurer, not just the contractor.
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Check for complaints and disciplinary actions on the license
Your state licensing board tracks complaints, disciplinary actions, and license suspensions. Also check the Better Business Bureau and your state attorney general's consumer complaint database. A pattern of complaints — even if resolved — indicates systemic problems.
Experience and References
Licensing proves minimum competency. References and track record prove actual quality. A roofer who's been in business locally for 10+ years has a reputation to protect.
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Confirm the company has been in business locally for at least 5 years
Roofing companies that fold after 2–3 years leave homeowners with worthless workmanship warranties. A company with a physical local address, established relationships with suppliers, and years of local work has too much invested to disappear after a bad job. Check their business registration date with your Secretary of State.
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Request and contact at least 3 references from jobs completed in the last 12 months
Call the references and ask specific questions: Did the crew show up on time? Was the final price what was quoted? Did they clean up completely? Were there any callbacks or leak issues? Drive by at least one reference property to see the finished roof. A roofer who hesitates to provide recent references is hiding something.
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Verify experience with your specific roof type (shingle, metal, tile, flat)
A shingle roofer installing a metal roof — or vice versa — is a recipe for problems. Each roofing material has different fastening patterns, underlayment requirements, flashing details, and ventilation considerations. Ask how many roofs of your type they've installed in the past year and request photos of completed projects.
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Check manufacturer certifications (GAF Master Elite, Owens Corning Preferred, CertainTeed SELECT)
Manufacturer certifications mean the roofer has completed training, met insurance and licensing requirements, and maintains quality standards set by the shingle manufacturer. The practical benefit: certified installers can offer enhanced manufacturer warranties (25–50 years) that non-certified installers cannot. Only about 2–5% of roofers earn these certifications.
Getting and Comparing Estimates
Always get at least three written estimates. The lowest price is rarely the best value — what matters is what's included in the scope and how clearly it's documented.
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Get at least 3 detailed written estimates — never accept verbal quotes
Each estimate should include: materials (brand, product line, color), labor, tear-off and disposal, permits, timeline, and payment schedule. Verbal estimates are worthless in a dispute. If a contractor won't put it in writing, walk away immediately.
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Verify each estimate includes full tear-off to the deck — not a nail-over
Some contractors bid lower by layering new shingles over old ones (a 'nail-over'). This hides deck damage, adds weight, voids many manufacturer warranties, and shortens the new roof's lifespan by 20–40%. Building codes in many areas prohibit more than two layers. Always insist on full tear-off with deck inspection.
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Compare estimates line-by-line — not just bottom-line price
A $2,000 price difference between two estimates often comes down to underlayment quality, ice-and-water shield coverage, flashing replacement vs. reuse, or drip edge installation. The cheapest estimate frequently omits items the more expensive ones include. Create a comparison spreadsheet to see exactly where estimates differ.
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Ask what happens if deck damage is found after tear-off — get per-sheet pricing in writing
Rotted decking is the most common source of unexpected roofing costs. A reputable roofer will include a per-sheet price for plywood replacement (typically $75–$150 per 4x8 sheet installed) in the written estimate. Contractors who say 'we'll figure it out' often present inflated charges once your roof is open and you have no leverage.
Contract and Payment Terms
The contract protects you. Every promise the roofer makes should be in writing. Verbal assurances evaporate the moment a dispute arises.
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Never pay more than 10–15% upfront — ideally pay nothing until materials arrive
Reputable roofers have supplier accounts and don't need your money to buy materials. A request for 50% upfront is the #1 red flag for a scam or a financially distressed company. The industry standard is: small deposit at signing (if any), progress payment when materials are delivered, and final payment upon completion and inspection.
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Confirm the contract includes a written workmanship warranty — minimum 5 years
Material warranties from the manufacturer cover defective shingles. Workmanship warranties from the contractor cover installation errors — improper nailing, flashing mistakes, ventilation failures. These are separate warranties. A roofer who won't warranty their work for at least 5 years doesn't trust their own installation quality.
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Verify the contract specifies the exact materials — brand, product line, and color
Without specific materials listed, a contractor can substitute cheaper products. 'Architectural shingles' is not specific enough — it should say 'GAF Timberline HDZ, Charcoal.' If the specified materials are unavailable, any substitution should require your written approval.
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Confirm the contract includes permit pulling and final inspection
Roof replacements require permits in most jurisdictions. The contractor should pull the permit (which creates a public record of the work) and schedule a final inspection with the building department. Unpermitted roof work can create problems when selling your home and may void your homeowner's insurance coverage for roof-related claims.
Red Flags — Walk Away Immediately
These warning signs indicate a scam, a financially desperate company, or a contractor who cuts corners. Any one of these is grounds to end the conversation.
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Contractor demands full payment upfront or cash-only payment
Full upfront payment removes all your leverage. Cash-only payment eliminates your paper trail. Both are hallmarks of fly-by-night operations. Legitimate roofers accept checks, credit cards, and financing — and they don't need your full payment before starting work.
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Door-to-door solicitation after a storm claiming to spot damage from the street
Storm chasers canvass neighborhoods after hail or wind events, manufacturing urgency to get signed contracts before homeowners can think clearly. They often 'find' damage on every roof they inspect. Get an independent inspection from a contractor you selected — not one who showed up uninvited.
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Contractor offers to waive your insurance deductible
Waiving your deductible is insurance fraud in most states. The contractor inflates the claim to cover both the work and your deductible — meaning they're submitting a fraudulent claim in your name. You're the policyholder, so you bear the legal risk if the insurer investigates.
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No physical business address — just a PO Box or cell phone number
A contractor without a physical location can disappear overnight. Drive by the business address to verify it exists. A functioning shop or office with signage, trucks, and employees indicates a permanent operation. A residential address with no signage may be legitimate for a small operation, but verify extra carefully.
Pro Tips
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Time your project for off-season pricing
Late fall and winter (outside hurricane/snow regions) are the slowest seasons for roofers. Many offer 10–20% discounts to keep crews working. If your roof can wait, scheduling for the off-season gets you better pricing, more responsive service, and the roofer's best crew — not the B-team that's available in peak season.
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Ask who will actually be on the roof
The person who gives you the estimate is often a salesperson. Ask whether the company uses its own W-2 employees or subcontractors. If they sub out the work, ask for the sub's license and insurance too. Many roofing complaints stem from miscommunication between the salesperson who promised one thing and the subcontractor who installed another.
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Keep 10% of the final payment until you've inspected the completed work
Walk the property after completion and before final payment. Check for nail pops in the driveway, leftover debris, proper drip edge alignment, and clean flashing. Go into the attic and look at the underside of the new deck. Holding the final 10% gives you leverage to get any issues corrected immediately.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
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Hiring the lowest bidder without comparing scope
The cheapest estimate almost always omits something — ice-and-water shield, drip edge replacement, proper ventilation, or starter strips. When you compare three estimates line-by-line, the cheap one becomes obviously incomplete. A $7,000 roof that needs $3,000 in corrections costs more than the $9,500 quote that included everything from the start.
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Signing a contract on the spot under pressure
High-pressure sales tactics — 'this price is only good today' or 'we have a crew available tomorrow' — are designed to prevent you from getting competing quotes or reading the contract carefully. A reputable roofer will give you time to think. The 'limited time' discount will still be available next week.
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Not verifying insurance on the actual day work begins
Insurance policies can lapse between the time you sign the contract and the day work starts. Call the insurance company the morning of the job to verify coverage is still active. This takes 5 minutes and protects you from liability if a worker is injured on your property.
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Accepting a verbal warranty without written documentation
A roofer who says 'we stand behind our work for 10 years' but won't put it in the contract is offering you nothing. Verbal warranties are unenforceable. The warranty should specify what's covered, what's excluded, the duration, and the process for filing a claim.