Roofing Contract Review Checklist — Don't Sign Without Checking These

The business name on the contract should match the name on their state contractor license. If they're operating under a DBA (doing business as), both the DBA and the legal entity name should appear. A PO Box alone — with no physical address — is a red flag.

The contract should include the contractor's state or local license number. Look it up on your state's contractor licensing board website to confirm it's active, not expired or suspended. Some states also show complaint history and disciplinary actions.

The contract should reference or attach a Certificate of Insurance showing general liability (minimum $1 million) and workers' compensation coverage. Call the insurance company to confirm the policy is current. Without these, you're liable for injuries or damage on your property.

The contract should name the exact materials: e.g., 'GAF Timberline HDZ, Charcoal, 24 squares' — not just 'architectural shingles.' Without specifics, the contractor can substitute cheaper products. Also verify underlayment type, flashing material, and ridge vent brand are specified.

The contract should state how many layers of existing roofing will be removed (e.g., 'tear-off of one layer of asphalt shingles to bare deck'). It should also include disposal and cleanup. If the contract says 'overlay' or 're-roof over existing,' understand that this means NO tear-off and the deck won't be inspected.

Damaged decking is found during tear-off when the old roofing is removed. The contract should specify the per-sheet price for plywood replacement (typically $75–$150 per 4×8 sheet installed). Without this clause, you may face uncontrolled costs after the roof is already open.

These components are easy to omit from a low bid. The contract should specify: new drip edge (material type), flashing at all penetrations and transitions, and any ventilation additions (ridge vent, soffit vents). If a component isn't listed, it's not included.

In regions with freeze-thaw cycles, building codes require ice-and-water shield membrane at the eaves, valleys, and around penetrations. The contract should specify where this membrane will be installed. In warm climates, this may not be required but is still recommended in valleys.

Standard deposits are 10–30% of the total contract. Some states legally cap the deposit amount (e.g., California limits to 10% or $1,000). Never pay more than 30% before work begins. Larger deposits remove your leverage if the work quality is poor.

The contract should state that final payment is due after the work passes your inspection or a specified period after completion. You should have the opportunity to walk the roof with the foreman (or inspect from the ground with binoculars) before releasing final payment.

Pay by check, credit card, or bank transfer for a paper trail. If paying cash, require a written receipt for each payment. Documented payments protect you in disputes and are required for insurance claims and tax purposes.

The contract should identify the shingle manufacturer's warranty (e.g., 'GAF 30-year limited warranty' or 'Owens Corning Preferred Protection'). Some warranties require a certified installer for full coverage. Verify that your contractor's certification level qualifies for the warranty tier described.

The contractor's workmanship warranty covers installation errors. Look for: duration (5–10 years is standard; under 2 years is a red flag), what's covered (leaks from installation defects), what's excluded (acts of God, homeowner modifications), and whether it's transferable to a new owner if you sell.

The warranty should start on the completion date, not the contract date. The claim process should be clear: who to contact, response time expectations, and what constitutes a valid claim. A warranty without a clear process is difficult to enforce.

The contract should include an estimated start date (or start window) and expected duration (typically 1–3 days for most homes). If the start date is vague ('will schedule in the next few weeks'), ask for a specific window. Open-ended scheduling lets contractors deprioritize your job.

What happens if rain delays the project? Does the crew return the next clear day? Is there a cost for extended timeline? How is the exposed deck protected overnight? These questions should be answered in the contract or discussed and documented before signing.

The contract should include daily cleanup, final magnetic nail sweep of the yard and driveway, and debris hauling and disposal. If dumpster placement requires a street permit, the contract should specify who obtains and pays for it.

Some contracts include clauses that let the contractor increase the price for 'unforeseen conditions' without a cap. An acceptable version: 'Decking replacement at $100/sheet if needed.' An unacceptable version: 'Price may increase based on conditions found during tear-off.' Without a cap, you have no cost control.

If the contractor doesn't pay their suppliers or subcontractors, those parties can file a mechanic's lien against YOUR property. The contract should include a clause requiring the contractor to provide lien waivers from all subs and suppliers upon final payment. This protects you from third-party claims.

Some contracts include binding arbitration clauses that prevent you from suing in court if a dispute arises. Arbitration can favor the contractor (who is a repeat participant). If present, consider negotiating this clause out or at least understanding what you're agreeing to.